Travel: The procession of “Los Empalaos”, Holy Week. Jerez de los Caballeros, 2022

They are heard before they are seen. The sounds of chains in the distance, raked across the cobblestones, drew my attention to a corner in the semi-dark street. I had an eerie sensation that I was about to be witness to something that would leave me incredulous. Slowly, a shrouded figure rounded the corner while my sight was drawn to the source of the noise: chains clasped onto bare feet appeared as my gaze followed the coarse robe up to their torso which was wrapped tightly with rope and, on their shoulders, they bore a heavy log where their arms were bound. A thorny crown pressed firmly onto their head. I looked for their eyes but only vaguely made them out, staring back through two holes in the black hood. Welcome to “Los Empalaos”, a unique and dramatic, silent Easter procession, declared a National Touristic Interest, that snakes its way, at night, through the medieval streets of Jerez de los Caballeros, Spain. It is guaranteed to have an impact on any visitor.